Day 4

After two short days of climbing, we embarked on a 13km route today. Our journey began at 8 am as we set out towards the Kuari Top for the summit, followed by a ridge walk back to the Tali campsite.

If you’re wondering where days 1-3 went, read Part 1 here: 12,516ft Above Seat Level – The Climb. If you aren’t, please carry on!

We had a few pitstops on our way to Kuari top, via Jhandi Top (just a flag at the top of that slope, nothing fancy). About 60-75mins since we started climbing, the path was now fully covered with snow. We put on our Crampons (provided by IndiaHikes for free) here and proceeded towards Kuari Pass. It was mostly an uphill climb with a few flat landing areas here and there.

As we ascended, making a pitstop at Jhandi Top, a simple flag marking the summit of a slope, the trail slowly transformed into a winter wonderland covered with snow. To tackle the icy terrain, we put on our Crampons (provided by IndiaHikes for free). The path was mostly uphill with occasional flat stretches.

After approximately 45 minutes, we reached a ridge marked by a small shrine, where we decided to leave our rucksacks behind and continued towards Kuari Top. Interestingly, even though the trek is known as the ‘Kuari Pass’ trek, most trekkers, including us, choose to head to Kuari Top instead of descending into the pass, as it lies in a depression from that point onwards.

The route was full of snow, and while it was amusing to witness fellow trekkers slipping and sliding (as long as they remained safe), the real treat awaited us at the summit. From the top, a 270-degree panoramic view of the majestic Himalayan peaks unfolded before our eyes, and the closer we got, the more our excitement surged.

Along the way, we encountered deceptive false peaks, creating the illusion of reaching the mountain’s top every 20 minutes. But after about 40 minutes from the ridge, we finally stood victorious at the true summit!

Curiously, it seemed like some of our fellow trekkers were more focused on capturing pictures of themselves rather than immersing themselves in the awe-inspiring grandeur of the mountains or acknowledging their personal accomplishments. Well, to each their own, I suppose?

While the top was quite crowded with other trekking groups, I sought solace away from the crowd, settling at one end to enjoy some quiet moments with myself. After a reflective interlude, we gathered for group photos to commemorate our achievement.

The next 15 minutes were me-to-me thoughts and conversations. I shan’t bore you with any of that. I then went up to take my proof-of-summiting picture and we gathered around for a few group pictures.

With the descent ahead of us, we prepared for a 3-4 hours ridge walk followed by a forest trail back to the Tali campsite. I found myself leading the pack at the start, excited to experience the long ridge walk I had always yearned for. The scenery was picture-perfect, akin to something you’d find in a National Geographic shot captured from a nearby helicopter.

After a tiresome yet fulfilling day, we took a long hour to find shelter from the relentless winds for our lunch stop. Although the path was mostly downhill, the day’s exhaustion seemed to linger, possibly because we had already achieved the summit, leaving us with less anticipation for what lay ahead, except for the prospect of a good meal, perhaps.

As we entered the forested area for the last hour of descent to the Tali campsite, we were greeted with some delicious pasta on our arrival. Nestled amidst the forest, the campsite was a beautiful sight, although the one downside was how quickly the sun disappeared.

Day 5

This marked the final day of our trek, and as we packed our bags one last time on the mountains, we couldn’t help but feel a mix of emotions as we prepared to bid farewell to this landscape. Today, we were eager to witness the Tali lake and catch a glimpse of the legendary Nanda Devi Peak—the highest peak in India.

In less than an hour, we reached Tali lake for a pit-stop. While the lake itself wasn’t extraordinary, the view on the other side made the stop worthwhile. Here, we engaged in an enriching IndiaHikes activity, each writing a heartfelt letter to someone dear. I took this opportunity to write to my two friends, Ron and Adi, who joined me on this trek after years of convincing.

Next up, we embarked on a thrilling cliff walk, spending most of the next 90 minutes traversing this exhilarating terrain. This might have been my first cliff walk, but one thing was certain—it wouldn’t be my last. Just before heading towards Gorson Bugyal, we paused to absorb what I can confidently say was the most breathtaking view of the entire trek. I perched on a ledge, facing the snow-capped mountains, attempting to etch every detail into my memory. This spot alone would be reason enough for me to return to the Kuari Pass trek one day, although I secretly wished my friends had captured the pictures I had envisioned.

Upon entering Gorson Bugyal and proceeding towards Auli, our final destination for the trek, we couldn’t help but notice that we were drawing closer to civilization, evident by the sight of old friends—trash—littering the path. Although I did my part by picking up as much litter as possible, the downhill walk was exhausting, leaving me with a mix of pride 🙂 for humans’ capabilities and concern for the environment.

Finally, we arrived at Auli, where our vehicles awaited to take us back to the Kharchi campsite (and thus the universe teaching us ki Duniya Gol Hai? – Naaah. Not taking Sanyaas yet!).

Got to the end? Here’s a Bonus Video 😛